In April, the light in Rome changes. The air warms up, the cobblestones dry quickly after the classic spring showers, and walking becomes the only sensible thing to do. If you are staying in our properties in the historic center, the temptation is to dive straight into the fray between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. I suggest you head in a different direction and climb the Aventine. It is a quiet residential neighborhood with wide sidewalks, elegant villas, and ivy-covered walls. I often go there when I need to escape the traffic of the Lungotevere and the constant noise of the central avenues. In spring, this hill is at its best because the gardens bloom and the temperatures allow you to stay outdoors without desperately searching for shade.
The climb and the orange garden
There are several ways to reach the top. The most strenuous, but also the most logical if you are coming from the river, is the Clivo dei Publicii. It is a short but steep climb that takes you straight to the ridge of the hill. Once at the top, the first mandatory stop is Parco Savello, which everyone in Rome calls the Orange Garden. Do not expect ancient ruins or wild vegetation here. The park has a very geometric, almost rigid layout, and it is a 1931 project. If you are interested in the history of 20th-century Roman urban planning, you can read the biography of landscape architect Raffaele De Vico, who designed this and many other green spaces in the city during those years.
The terrace at the end of the central path is always full of people with their phones out to photograph the dome of St. Peter's. It is touristy, sure, but it is still worth stopping for five minutes to lean against the parapet. From up there, you can clearly see the bend of the Tiber and the Trastevere district right in front. In April, the trees are full, the scent is already noticeable from the street, and the late afternoon light cuts across the trunks sharply, creating long shadows on the gravel.
Quiet churches and the keyhole
Leaving the garden, turn right onto Via di Santa Sabina. This straight, tree-lined street is home to three churches that alone make the climb worthwhile. The basilica of Santa Sabina dates back to the 5th century and is one of my favorites. The interior is huge, empty, and lacks the baroque decorations that crowd other Roman churches. It has original cypress wood doors and selenite windows that filter a milky, almost gray light, perfect for resting your eyes. Immediately after is Sant'Alessio, with an internal courtyard where there is usually no one and a facade rebuilt in the 18th century.
Continuing to Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, you will find the famous keyhole. The line to look through the keyhole of the gate and see the dome of St. Peter's centered between the hedges is now permanent, at any time of day. Honestly, if there are too many people, just keep walking. The square itself, designed by Giovan Battista Piranesi, is worth a look for its esoteric and military decorations carved into the tuff. This area changes completely at night and becomes very dark and isolated. It is no coincidence that it was used for some night walks in recent Italian cinema. Directors appreciate the contrast between the dim light of the streetlamps and the grandeur of the large white walls.
The rose garden and the descent toward the Circus Maximus
Descending from the opposite side of the hill, toward Via di Valle Murcia, you encounter the Roseto Comunale. It opens to the public only in spring, usually starting in late April, coinciding with the blooming. The land is divided into two sectors by an asphalt road. The upper part houses the permanent botanical collection, the lower one the flowers of the annual international competition. The paths follow the natural slope of the ground, and from down here, you can see the ruins of the Palatine Hill rising above the valley.
The geography of this basin is the physical basis for the city's foundation. Legend says that Remus and Romulus chose these two hills, the Aventine and the Palatine, to count the birds in flight and decide who would rule the new settlement. The details of the myth and the dispute are summarized in this overview on the official tourism portal. Today, the entire valley floor is occupied by the esplanade of the Circus Maximus. In spring, you will find Romans jogging, tourists sitting on the grass drinking beer, and dogs left free to play.
Where to eat around here
On the Aventine itself, there are no commercial venues, apart from a couple of hidden bars frequented by residents. To sit at a table, you have to go down toward the Testaccio district or toward Viale Aventino. If you choose Testaccio, head straight toward Piazza Testaccio or Via Marmorata. There, the silence of the hill disappears quickly and gives way to the sound of dishes and car horns. A trattoria with outdoor tables, checkered tablecloths, and a plate of rigatoni alla carbonara that is just heavy enough can be found without too much trouble.
If you go down toward Viale Aventino, the area is more modern, busy, and frequented by those who work in the FAO offices. Here you will find pizza by the slice, bistros with daily menus, and bars that stay open until the evening. I suggest you stop at a bakery, grab a slice of white pizza stuffed with thinly sliced mortadella, and eat it while walking toward the Circo Massimo metro station. It is the most practical way to end the morning, recharge your energy, and decide where to go in the afternoon.