In November, Rome shifts gears. Summer is a distant memory, the air turns crisp, and daylight hours grow shorter, while the low afternoon sun warms the tufa walls. If you only have one day and do not want to spend it queuing at the usual three famous monuments, I suggest a walking route that combines the quiet of the lesser-known hills with great public art, the kind found inside churches that does not require an admission ticket.
We will be walking a lot, so forget about elegant shoes. The cobblestones wet with autumn dampness can be slippery, and the climbs make themselves felt. This itinerary is designed to be done entirely on foot, provided you start early in the morning to make the most of the daylight.
Morning: the quiet of the Caelian Hill and the descent to the Circus Maximus
The day begins near the Colosseum. Instead of joining the queue for the amphitheatre right away, turn your back on the crowd and walk up the Caelian Hill. In November, the leaves on the trees begin to change colour, offering an understated display before the branches are left bare.
The first stop is the Parco Archeologico del Celio, a recently opened green area that offers a quiet refuge from the traffic. Admission is free; for updated opening hours, please consult the sito ufficiale di Turismo Roma. Here you can walk among fragments of marble and ancient inscriptions laid out on the lawns. To better understand what you are looking at, you can check the scheda dedicata sul portale turistico ufficiale which describes the origin of these finds, many of which came to light during the major excavations of the late nineteenth century.
After a stroll through the ruins of the park, walk down the Clivo di Scauro, an ancient street that preserves its medieval appearance intact, with brick arches spanning the road. Pass in front of the Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo and continue downhill until you reach the valley of the Circo Massimo. This walk takes about twenty minutes and is almost entirely downhill.
Late morning: the climb up the Aventine and the Orange Garden
Cross the expanse of the Circo Massimo and head towards the Aventine Hill. The climb from this side goes up the Clivo dei Publicii. It is a steady but short climb that leads you straight to one of the city's most famous viewpoints.
The Giardino degli Aranci, whose official name is Parco Savello, is famous for its terrace overlooking the Tiber and the dome of San Pietro. In November, the bitter orange trees are laden with colourful fruit, creating a sharp contrast with the dark green of the cypresses. You can read the details about the storia di questo spazio pubblico to discover how the ancient fortress of the Savelli family became the garden we see today.
A few steps further on is the Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, famous for the keyhole in the gate of the Priory. There is almost always a small queue of people waiting to look through the slit. If the line is too long, skip it without regret: the view from the garden is just as beautiful and requires no waiting.
To go down from the Aventine towards the river, do not turn back. Instead, use the pedestrian path that descends steeply towards the lungotevere. This is a percorso pedonale disegnato negli anni Trenta designed in the 1930s by the architect Raffaele De Vico, featuring steps and terraces that wind through the hill's vegetation.
Lunch: a quick stop in Testaccio
Once you reach the lungotevere, cross the river on the Ponte Sublicio to enter the Testaccio neighbourhood. This area is ideal for a no-nonsense lunch. Avoid the touristy restaurants in the centre and head straight to the Mercato di Testaccio to taste the local street food.
Here you can choose from several stalls preparing Roman street food:
- A sandwich with savoury boiled beef at one of the market stalls.
- A plate of fresh cacio e pepe pasta made on the spot.
- A classic supplì al telefono, fried hot.
- A slice of Roman pizza bianca filled with mortadella.
The market offers communal tables in the centre where you can sit. It is a quick, cheap solution and very popular with local residents.
Afternoon: hunting for Caravaggios in the historic centre
After lunch, head towards the historic centre using public transport. For updated information on public transport fares and tickets, consult the ATAC website. The goal for the afternoon is a route to discover the masterpieces of Caravaggio kept inside three churches that can be visited for free.
Here are the stops to follow on foot, all concentrated within a few blocks:
- Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi: located between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. Inside the Cappella Contarelli, you can view three canvases dedicated to Saint Matthew. The chapel is at the end of the left aisle. Bring a few one-euro coins with you to turn on the lights that illuminate the paintings.
- Chiesa di Sant'Agostino: a five-minute walk from the previous one. Here, in the first chapel on the left, is the Madonna dei Pellegrini, a work that caused a stir at the time due to the realism of the dirty feet of the commoners in the foreground.
- Basilica di Santa Maria del Popolo: if you still have the energy to walk, head up Via di Ripetta to Piazza del Popolo. In the Cappella Cerasi, you will find the Crocifissione di san Pietro and the Conversione di san Paolo.
This artistic itinerary is an excellent way to take shelter in case of sudden autumn rain. If you want to learn more about the history of these paintings and map out the stops precisely, you can consult the itinerario dedicato alle opere romane of the Lombard painter.
Late afternoon: the light on the Tiber
End the day with a walk along the river as the sun begins to go down. In November, sunset comes early, around 5:00 PM, painting the sky in warm tones that are reflected in the water. Walk along the lungotevere towards Castel Sant'Angelo or head up to Ponte Umberto I to take a classic photo of the dome of San Pietro standing out against the evening sky.
To get around in the evening, for updated metro timetables, please consult the ATAC website. If you need to return to Termini station or other areas, the main bus lines continue to run even after the metro closes with night services, but the frequency is drastically reduced.