May in Rome is intense. Temperatures rise, museum lines wrap around the block, and outdoor tables are packed by lunchtime. This is the exact moment it makes sense to catch a regional train and leave the city for a day. Foreign tourists often ignore Lazio and head straight to Florence or Naples for their day trips. However, the region offers solid options for anyone wanting a break from the crowds.
You do not necessarily need to rent a car. The regional train network connects many of these destinations. The main thing is to plan your schedule and expect a few standard delays. Here are five directions to consider for a spring day trip, complete with travel times and instructions so you do not get lost during transfers.
Viterbo and the medieval quarter
Viterbo is north of Rome. Check the official Trenitalia website for up-to-date departure stations. The journey takes about an hour and a half, and you should consult the relevant official website for current fares. The train line is old and slow. Still, the landscape passing through the Roman countryside makes the wait worthwhile.
The main reason to come here is the San Pellegrino neighborhood. It is an intact medieval area made of gray stone, external staircases called profferli, and narrow alleys where the sun barely reaches. Walking through it early in the morning, when only residents are around, gives you an idea of what these towns looked like before mass tourism.
In May, the temperatures allow you to use the outdoor thermal baths without freezing. The free pools at Bullicame are a couple of kilometers from the center. There are no changing rooms, showers, or facilities. You need to bring a towel and accept the sulfur smell that will stick to you for a while. If you prefer something organized, Terme dei Papi has a monumental paid pool and you can reach it by city bus from the train station. For lunch, look for a trattoria that makes acquacotta, a peasant soup with stale bread, chicory, and potatoes.
Sperlonga and the first beach days
Going to the beach in Lazio in May is a gamble with the weather. If the day is good, Sperlonga is the most logical choice. Forget the organized beaches of Ostia. Here you will find white houses climbing up a promontory facing south and much cleaner water.
To get there, take the train from Termini to the Fondi-Sperlonga station. It takes about an hour and a quarter. From there, a local shuttle bus goes to the sea in twenty minutes. Check the connection times on the board outside the station. Sometimes the wait in the sunny square is long.
Once in town, you have two options. You can go down to the Levante beach and rent a sunbed. In May, the beach clubs are open but lack the August crowds, and prices are lower. Alternatively, you can walk along the coast to the National Archaeological Museum and the Villa of Tiberius. Check the official museum website for current ticket prices.
Sabaudia between dunes and architecture
Sabaudia is a planned city, inaugurated in 1934. It is different from any other Italian town. The squares are huge, and the buildings have sharp geometric lines, red bricks, and white travertine. The church of the Annunziata has a modern mosaic on its facade that is worth a stop. I go there often because the visual impact is disorienting. It looks like an empty movie set.
Beyond the architecture is the coastal dune. It is a strip of sand stretching for kilometers, separated from the road by wooden walkways and Mediterranean scrub. In May, the kiosks start opening on weekends. You can eat fried calamari with a view of the Circeo promontory in the distance.
Getting there by public transport requires patience. Check the official website of the relevant authority for suburban bus departure points. The trip takes almost two and a half hours depending on traffic. If you can rent a car, it is much easier. Take the Pontina state road and in an hour you can park near the bridge of Lake Paola.
Anagni and the crypts of Ciociaria
The area southeast of Rome is called Ciociaria. It is a land of hills, isolated abbeys, and hilltop towns. Anagni is the most accessible stop for a day trip dedicated to papal history, without having to face the Vatican lines. The train from Termini takes fifty minutes to the Anagni-Fiuggi station. From there, a local bus takes you up to the historic center.
The town is known for the famous slap of Pope Boniface VIII. However, the real reason to come up here is the crypt of the Cathedral of Santa Maria. The walls and vaults are covered in excellently preserved thirteenth-century frescoes. Admission requires a ticket, and visiting hours often include a long lunch break. It is best to arrive early in the morning.
Stop to eat in one of the osterias along the main street. Order the fini fini, a very thinly sliced egg pasta dressed with meat sauce and chicken giblets. Restaurant prices here are much lower than what you are used to in central Rome.
Tivoli and the historic villas
If you are short on time and want to stay close to Rome, Tivoli is the classic choice. Check the official website of the relevant authority for departure stations and travel times. The city is built on a hill and offers cooler air. This is a significant detail when the thermometer rises in the city.
The main stop is Villa d'Este. The terraced gardens and dozens of fountains fed by the natural drop of the Aniene river justify the trip on their own. In May, the gardens are green and the misted water in the air lowers the temperature. A short distance from the center is Villa Adriana, the summer residence of Emperor Hadrian. It is a vast archaeological area with ruins scattered among olive trees. To see both in the same day you have to walk a lot, so wear comfortable shoes.
Practical tips for regional trains
Getting around Lazio on public transport requires some organization. Regional trains follow specific rules that you should verify before leaving. Here are four things to know before you go.
- Digital purchase: check how to buy tickets on the official channels. You will avoid the lines at the station ticket machines, which are always clogged with tourists in spring.
- Check-in: verify the digital ticket validation rules on the operator's official website. Make sure to follow the validation procedures to avoid fines on board.
- Air conditioning: new regional trains have their air conditioning set to very low temperatures. Bring a light jacket or a sweatshirt even if it is very hot in Rome.
- Evening return: connections from provincial towns back to Rome drop drastically in the evening. Always check the time of the last train or connecting bus so you do not risk having to find a local taxi late at night.